In the bustling factories of Karachi and Lahore, where the hum of sewing machines echoes through dimly lit halls, millions of workers toil to clothe the world. Yet, behind the vibrant fabrics exported to global fashion giants lies a grim reality of exploitation, vulnerability, and silenced voices.
Amnesty International’s recent report, “Stitched Up: Denial of Freedom of Association for Garment Workers in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka,” shines a harsh light on this underbelly of the industry. Focusing on the denial of workers’ rights to organize and bargain collectively, the report reveals how governments and corporations in South Asia perpetuate a system that leaves employees—particularly women—exposed to harassment, unsafe conditions, and economic precarity. In Pakistan, where the textile and garment sector forms the backbone of the economy, contributing 8.5% to GDP and over half of exports, these issues are not isolated incidents but structural flaws that undermine human dignity and sustainable growth.
The garment industry in Pakistan employs around two million people directly, with countless more in informal supply chains. However, approximately 75% of these workers operate in the shadows of informality, lacking legal protections, written contracts, or access to social security. This precarity manifests in poverty-level wages, with more than a third of surveyed workers earning less than Rs25,000 (about USD 90) per month—far below the estimated living wage of USD 279.95 (Rs67,200). Factories often exploit loopholes by shifting workers to piece-rate systems after minimum wage hikes, effectively slashing earnings while evading regulations like the Sindh Factories Act 2015, which bans contract labor for core production roles. Coerced overtime is rampant, with shifts stretching to 9-11 hours daily, and refusal met with threats of dismissal. Deductions for minor infractions, such as a few minutes of lateness, can wipe out hours of pay, trapping workers in cycles of debt and desperation.
Women, who make up only 28% of the garment workforce in Pakistan—a stark contrast to the majority-female labor forces in neighboring countries—bear the heaviest burden. This low participation rate mirrors Pakistan’s overall female labor force involvement of about 22.6%, the lowest in South Asia. Many are rural migrants, often young and from marginalized communities, facing intersecting forms of discrimination based on gender, caste, class, religion, and migration status. They are viewed as dispensable, relegated to insecure roles with lower pay—men earn 41% more per hour on average in the Asian garment sector, according to ILO data. Harassment is pervasive: verbal abuse, sexual intimidation, physical touching, and coerced overtime used as tools of control. One worker, pseudonymously named Sumaaiyaa, recounted enduring lifelong harassment, including demands for dates and dinners from supervisors, with complaints ignored or leading to demotion. Religious minorities, like Christians, are funneled into low-wage janitorial jobs, facing mandatory overtime and threats, as illustrated by Aisha’s experience of having her ID withheld to enforce compliance.
Unsafe working conditions exacerbate these vulnerabilities. The 2022 Ali Enterprises factory fire in Karachi, which claimed over 250 lives, exemplifies the deadly consequences of neglected safety standards: illegal constructions, absent alarms and exits, and a complete lack of unions to advocate for improvements. Special Economic Zones (SEZs) and Export Processing Zones (EPZs) are particularly egregious, exempted from key labor laws like the Factories Act 1934 and Minimum Wages Ordinance 1961, leading to unchecked hazards and illnesses. Workers endure miserable environments—no washrooms during shifts, verbal abuse, and production pressures that have remained unchanged for decades. The absence of effective grievance mechanisms means abuses go unaddressed, fostering a culture of impunity.
At the heart of these problems is the denial of freedom of association. Unionization rates in Pakistan’s garment sector are dismally low, at just 8% among surveyed workers, with about 80% of workplaces having no unions at all. Barriers are formidable: high thresholds for union certification (requiring over one-third of the workforce), arbitrary deregistrations, and corruption where officials leak member lists to employers. In EPZs, strikes are outright banned, and laws like the Industrial Relations Ordinance 1968 criminalize “illegal strikes.” Employers deploy “yellow unions”—management-controlled entities—to block genuine organizing, often through bribery or threats. Workers attempting to unionize face dismissal, with all interviewed organizers reporting retaliation. This repression violates international standards, including ILO Conventions 87 and 98 on freedom of association and collective bargaining, which Pakistan has not fully ratified.
Comparisons with regional peers highlight Pakistan’s unique challenges. In Bangladesh, unionization is even lower at 2.25%, marred by post-Rana Plaza yellow unions and violent crackdowns, including four deaths and 131 arrests in 2023 protests. India sees 5% unionization in ready-made garments, with SEZs exempting labor laws and worker committees supplanting independent unions. Sri Lanka fares slightly better at 9.5% overall, but Free Trade Zones (FTZs) restrict access and deploy military against protests. Across all four countries, women dominate the workforce except in Pakistan, yet face similar abuses: 81% in Bangladesh report sexual violence, while Sri Lankan workers endure ethnic threats and health risks from excessive targets. Informal employment is rampant—90% in India, high in Bangladesh’s SEZs—fueling wage theft and precariousness.
This bleak landscape is corroborated by the 2025 ITUC Global Rights Index, which rates Pakistan a 5, the worst category, signifying “no guarantee of rights” due to systematic violations. Key issues include a Balochistan court declaring 62 unions unlawful, affecting millions of public sector workers, and restrictions on union registration and bargaining. In comparison, India and Bangladesh also score 5, while Sri Lanka is at 4 (systematic violations), against an Asia-Pacific average of 4.08. Pakistan’s overall unionization hovers at 2-3%, far below what is needed for meaningful change, with governments viewing strong unions as threats to economic growth rather than partners in progress.
Addressing these entrenched issues requires bold action. Amnesty International urges the Pakistani government to ratify all 11 fundamental ILO conventions, adopt a non-discriminatory living wage, and resource labor inspections for thorough enforcement. Key reforms include repealing EPZ exemptions, implementing the Protection against Harassment of Women at the Workplace Act with 2022 amendments, and revising laws that criminalize strikes under anti-terrorism provisions. Companies must respect workers’ rights by providing transparent contracts, supporting independent unions, and enforcing zero-tolerance for discrimination through training and secure complaint mechanisms. Global fashion brands should conduct human rights due diligence, increase purchase prices to cover living wages, and avoid sourcing from non-unionized zones without remediation. Compliance is not just ethical—it’s economic, as Pakistan’s GSP+ status, granting preferential EU trade access, hinges on upholding labor rights, with renewal looming.
In conclusion, the garment workers of Pakistan are the unsung heroes sustaining a vital industry, yet they are stitched into a fabric of injustice that frays their lives and the nation’s moral fiber. By heeding Amnesty’s recommendations and fostering genuine worker empowerment, Pakistan can transform its workplaces into models of equity and resilience. This is not merely about rights; it’s about building a sustainable economy where no one is left behind. Failure to act risks unraveling the progress made, perpetuating cycles of poverty and exploitation. The time for change is now—let the threads of reform bind a stronger, fairer future for all.